,i PRISCILLA 

JUNIORS' 

^ BASKETRY 

^ BOOK 



y^ 



ALesson Book 

for 

Children 



Published by 



A ITULUIIMICU. UU 

y\ \ The Priscilla Publishing Co. 



Boston,Mass. 






\ J.[}i::i) \i^^i LjciLaA"^ cxU vLJ i J J. Ly 









K 



L©SS©KS ff( 

ChiHren 



Grades 



Price, IS cents 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE PRISCILLA PUBLISHIMG 
BROAD STREET, BOSTON, 



Copyright, 1914, by The Priscilla PubUshing Company 

Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office 

Entered at Stationers' Hall, London 

All rights reserved 







Child at Work on Raffia 



OCT 22 1914 



^£i- 






r?^o. 



iacsiiclirj for ClhiHr^ 



'HEX tlie fascinating art of Basketry took such a hold on 
our Arts and Crafts people some few years ago, it was 
taken up entirely by seniors. Now, basketry is listed in the 
busy work and manual training" courses in most of our public 
schools. 

It is the aim of this little book to present work that can 
be done by juniors, and it will therefore l)e divided into 
grades corresponding to those in the schools. 



Mdergarten 



A 



SIMPLE things in raffia are about all that can be attempted 
here, and the easiest of these is a sewing card with the 
design done in colored raffia. The original of the illustration 
was made by a child fi\e years old. It was done in red and 
green raffia, without any help from the teacher. 

It is suggested that the teacher make her own cards, as 
the holes in the ordinary sewing cards are a trifle too close 
for raffia. 

Plain, medium-weight cardboard is used, and it is ruled 



off, and the 
holes made at 
regular inter- 
vals with an 
awl or other 
sharp instru- 
ment. 

A\'ith these 
simple little 
cards and a 
few strands of 
bright-colored 
raffia, children 
can work out 
many pretty 
designs, a n d 
not only keep 




Sewing Card 



their little 
fingers b u s y, 
but also culti- 
\"ate their im- 
agination a t 
the same time. 
Next comes 
knotting or tv- 
ing with raffia, 
and on the fol- 
owing page is 
shown a bag 
\\' h i c h the 
children can 
easily make, 
and will also 
find useful. 




Kindergarten Bag 



Bags like the one shown 
five years old without much 

A circle of cardboard four 
is cut, containing a one-inch 
cardboard circle is wrapped 
finished twehx threads of r, 




Basket 



above can be made by children 

help from the teacher. 

and one-half inches in diameter 
hole in the middle. Then this 
closely A\'ith rafiia, and when 

affia are tied on with the knot 
at the outer edge of the circle. 
Each two threads are then 
tied tog'ether in a plain knot 
about one inch from where 
the rafiia is tied on, or one 
inch from the base. The next 
two are tied, and so on around 
the circle. Then another row 
one inch above that is tied 
until we have four rows, when 
each two threads of rafifia are 
tied tightly together, thus 
forming a loop somewhat 
smaller than the other meshes. 
Tliese loops take the place 
(^f a casing, and a few strands 
of twisted rafiia are drawn 



through each way, like a drawing'-striiig', and lied, to carry 
the bag by. 

The bag may or may not be Hned. The hning, of course, 
would have to be put in by the teacher, and could be an ordi- 
nary bag, about eight inches deep, with a four and one-half- 
inch circular bottom, and tacked in around the top and bottom. 



First 



Firimairj 



tN this grade Kindergarten work can. of ccuirse, be repeated, 
and then braiding- may be taught. This latter is not so 
easy for little fingers as it 
sounds. It has been gener- 
ally conceded by teachers 
of the work that weaving 
is learned more quickly and 
neatly than braiding'. 

For this reason braiding 
should be persevered in 
throughout the year, and 
toward the close of the 
term many little articles 



Doll's Hat 

may be made from braided raffia, 
such as hats, mats, bags, etc., the 
work being started at the centre 
and each braid sewed to the last 
with a fine thread of split raffia. 

A few such articles are here 
illustrated. 

Purse. The little purse is made 
of smoothly l)raide(l raffia sewed 
around to form a small mat. An- 
(^ther mat is made the same size, 
then the two are sewed together 
half way around the circumfer- 
ence, and a braided handle is 
sewed to the sides. 





Purse 



Second Primary 



Woven Raffia Mat. A circle four inches in diameter is 
drawn on stra\\--board, antl the edges nicked Hke the teeth in 
a comb, making an uneven number of nicks. String this loom 
with raffia, as shoAvn in the illustration, by making a tiny 
hole in the centre and wrapping from there around each 
tooth. llolh sides arc alike, and the raffia is fastened bv 
tying in a small knot after carrying around the last time. 

Xow thread a nee- 
dle with raffia and 
])lace l)ack of one of 
the loom threads, in 
front of the next, and 
on around, going over, 
under, etc., as in wea\-- 
ing. Put in a narrow 
strijx^ of color for 
variety, and when the 
raffia gives out tie on 
a new strand, cover- 
ing the knot the next 
time around. 

Do both sides ex- 
actly alike, cut off the 
teeth and buttonhole 
t h e e d g e. g o i n g 
through both straw- 
board and raffia. 

To make the 
fringed mat, make and string a straw-board loom as above, 
but Aveave one side onlv. Then cut the raffia loose at the 
centre on the side which is not woven, buttonhole and make 
a spider-Aveb in the centre as follows : Thread a needle with 
raffia, putting a knot in the end. Catch through any place 
near the inner circle and take a stitch across the hole, then 
across the other way. and across diagonally. Weave in and 
out a couple of times with the needle of raffia, thus filling 
up the centre hole. Take from the loom and tie each two 
strands together on the edge. Then tie the edge full of 
raffia and cut short for fringe. The little mats can do dutv 




Loom 




Mat 



for bag bottoms. There is 
room for only a few illustra- 
tions, but the children can 
make many other simple 
articles. 

Doll Parasol. Make a 
base like the fringed mat, 
omitting" the fringe and but- 
tonholing the edge instead. 
Cut a piece of reed five inch- 
es long and sharpen one end 
to a point. The reed must 
be as thick as the hole in 
the centre of the mat. Push 
the pointed end through 
the hole, making a handle 
for • the parasol. Color the 

handle with dye or water-colors to match the raffia top. 
Pincushion. Take smoothly braided raffia and sew to- 
gether as though starting a doll's hat. When a circle two 
inches in diameter has been sewn together, turn up an edge, 
making it two rows around. Sew in a pincushion, stuffed 
with wool or wheat liran, to exactly fit this tiny basket. 

Holder for Ball of 
Cord, l^ake a long 
strand of raffia and 
loop the m i (1 d 1 e 
around the finger, 
and in this loop tie 
scx'cn other strands. 
Take any two pieces 
and tie together in a 
hard knot about one 
inch from where the 
raffia is tied on. 
W^hen the row is 
completed tie two 
more rows each one 
inch from the last. 
Slip in a ball of cord 
and tie the loose 
ends of raffia with a 
smart bow of ribbon. 




Fringed Mat 



For illustrations, see page 9 

EY the time this grade is reached the children have had 
some little experience with rafifia, and will be able to do 
pretty good work. Page 9 contains a number of articles here 
described, and all of which can be made by Third Grade pupils. 

Number i. Knotted Bag. Cut a strip of bristol-board 
2x 12 inches. Sew the two shorter edges together and wrap 
with rafifia. Tie twelve strands of rafifia around this in knots 
equal distances apart and knot the loose ends, two pieces 
together all the way around, as we did the kindergarten bag 
on page 4; the closer the knots the finer will be the mesh. 
A\'hen four rows have been tied, draw all loose ends together 
for fringe and tie with a ribbon. A ribbon handle is also 
attached. 

Number 2. Napkin Ring. Nine small brass rings are used 
for this attracti\e and simple napkin-ring. Each ring is but- 
tonholed with fine rafifia. and ribbon woven in and out to hold 
them together. The ribl^on is fastened in a short bow. 

Number 3. Penwiper. Weave a mat on a four-inch loom. 
Cut from the loom and buttonhole the edge. Cut a couple of 
pieces of chamois or flannel the size of the mat, scallop the 
edges with the scissors and fasten to the mat by sewing 
through the middle with rafifia, which is tied in a bow on top 
of the mat. 

Number 4. Needlebook. Cut a three and one-half inch 
circle of bristol-board, cut a small hole in the middle, wrap 
smoothly wdth rafifia and make a spider-web across the middle. 
Make another circle exactly like it. Cut several small pieces 
of flannel with scalloped edges the size of the circles and fasten 
all together by placing the flannel between the two mats and 
sewing all the edges together for a little way. Directly oppo- 
site this fastening sew a small piece of ribl)on or rafifia to 
each circle : thus the booklet may be tied shut Avhen not in use. 

Number 5. Scissors Guard. A small brass ring is button- 
holed with raffia, and in this ring are tied six broad strands of 
rafifia. Pin the ring to the knee, and wdth a needle threaded 
with rafifia weave under and over until about four inches have 
been woven. Fasten the thread and dividing the origijial six 




Third Grade Work 
9 



strands into two groups of three strands each, fashion each 
i^roup into a braid and finish with a tassel, or simply tie the 
scissors on without a tassel. 

Number 6. Pinball. A cardboard circle two inches in 
diameter is pierced in the middle and wound with raffia. An- 
other circle the same size is made and the tW'O placed together 
and the edges buttonholed, the stitches being as close together 
as possible. Stick the rim full of fancy headed pins and hang 
up by a small loop of raffia fastened to the edge. 

Number 7. Match Scratcher. Take a sheet of cardboard or 
straw-board three by fi\e inches and prepare a small loom. 
Across the top, equal distances apart, punch an uneven number 
of holes. Repeat at the bottom. I'lace a stick or stout wire 
across the top and bottom (through the end holes) to keep 
the raffia from pulling when the weaving is begun. 

String this loom with raffia through the holes from top to 
bottom. Now^ thread a needle with raffia, and beginning at 
the upper right-hand corner weave under and over until the 
loom is full. Buttonhole the edges and cut from the loom. 
Now cut sandpaper the size of the oblong mat and sew to the 
mat all around the edges. At the middle of the top fasten a 
loop of raffia to hang by. 

With a little thought these mats can be put to many uses. 
For instance, the loom ma}^ be square and a pillow-top made 
on it. In that case thick fringe should be tied all around the 
edges. 

Number 8. Another Match Scratcher. From smooth bristol- 
Ixiard of some pretty cob^r cut a five-pointed star on a six- 
inch diameter. Draw any pretty design, punch holes with a 
large darning-needle and Avork the design in a contrasting color 
of raffia. Cut a star of sandpaper the same size and sew^ to the 
back through every point. Hang by a loop of raffia tied 
through one of the points of the star. 

Hair Receiver (not illustrated). -Make a base as described 
in the kindergarten bag on page 4. A narrow strip of card- 
board as many inches long as the base is inches in circumfer- 
ence, has the edges sewn together and is wound Ayith raffia 
for the sides. Make a spider-web over the hole in the base, 
thus filling up the centre hole, and sew the sides and base 
together wn'th raffia. 

Make another base like the first, leaving a larger hole in 
the middle and not making a spider-web across this hole. Sew 
to the sides all around the edge, making a hair-receiver. 

ID 



For illustrations, see page 13 

Number i. Baby's Moccasin. Cut from cardboard a small 
slipper sole. A good plan is to set a baby shoe down on the 
cardboard and draw around it. Punch twenty-two holes 
around the sole equal distances apart and not too near the 
edge. Draw raffia through the holes and tie the knots, not 
on the edge, but on the inside of the sole — say directly over 
the hole through which it is drawn. 

If the sole is now pinned to the knee the work will pro- 
gress much better. Take any strand of raffia and tie to the 
next in a small hard knot almost one-half inch from the edge 
of the sole. When the raffia has been tied all around begin 
a new row, making the mesh slightly larger at the toe and 
heel. The first row may be tied with the raffia out flat, but 
the others must be upstanding, in order to shape the slipper. 

AMien two or three rows have been tied, turn the sole up- 
side down and pin to the knee and, using a long strand of 
raffia, or one of the loose ends, if long enough, tie all of the 
strands to it. Draw the raffia rather closely over the toe and 
heel. Cut off fringes, and through the little casing just made 
run a strand of raffia, which is tied around the ankle tn hold 
the moccasin in place. An industrious child can thus fit out 
her (li)ll Avith numberless ])airs of slippers. 

Number 2. Handkerchief Bag. In a small brass ring 
twent\-one strands of raffia are tied at the middle of each 
strand. Take the left-hand piece of one couplet and the right- 
hand piece of the one next to it and tie together about an 
inch from the ring. Tie all around, and three-quarters inch 
above make another row. When fi\e rows ha^•e been tied, 
finish, as we did the moccasin, by tying every strand to a long- 
strand of raffia. Tie two or three times to make sure of a 
tight knot. 

The bag has a lining with a casing and draw-string of silk 
cord. In tying the rows of knots each row must be tied a 
tinv bit nearer the last one to give the bag shape. 

Number 3. Another Bag. Start just like the bag above. 
When two rows have been tied take each three groups of two 
and tie in a knot and then braid for two inches. 1liis makes 
seven braids. Fasten each braid by tying tight with fine 

II 



raffia, or by tying in a tight knot, and cut off the fringes. 
Line with a plain lining of silk or sateen. The braids should 
come to the bottom of the casing and be tacked fast. 

Number 4. Square Mesh Bag. On a ruler tie a strand of 
raffia (the middle of the strand) around every inch mark, 
leaving every two ends to hang down. Begin at the left, 
and letting the first strand hang, tie each two together in a 
row of knots. Tie six rows each time, leaving one strand to 
hang free at each end. Slip from the ruler and tie the loose 
strands. 

Before taking from the ruler, each row will have a knot 
less than the row above, hut when fiuishetl the bag will be 
square. Line the bag and use the row (^f loops that held 
the raffia to the ruler for a casing through which the draw- 
string goes. Finish bag at the bottom with fringe made by 
tying raffia in the last mesh. 

Number 5. Blotting Pad. Cut from cardboard an oblong 
three by six inches. With a knife make a slit two inches long 
directly in the middle, running lengthwise of the oblong. 
Thread a needle ^^■ith raffia and wind smoothly from the slit 
around the edges of the cardboard. 

Draw lines from each corner to the slit, and when winding 
and the corner is reached, sew the raffia into the line, and 
when the corner is nicely turned begin to wrap again. Cut 
several pieces of blotting-paper the size of the oblong and 
tie all together at the centre of the six-inch side with a bit 
of raffia. 

Number 6. Handkerchief Holder. A sijuare of cardboard 
four by four inches is made just like the blotter (No. 5 on 
this ]:)age), except that there is no slit. A second square the 
same size is then made exactly like it. The two pieces arc 
laid together and held together by a band of elastic which 
has been slipped into a piece of ribl)on shirred at each side 
and tied on top in a bow. Tlandkerchicfs are slipped between 
the two squares. 

Number 7. Valentine. From straw-board cut a heart four 
inches long and cut a small heart out of the centre. Wrap 
smoothly with deep red raffia, catching through with the 
needle' at the outer edge, and paste a small picture o\-er the 
heart-sha])ed hole in the centre. Buttonhole the outer edge 
to give a neat finish. Paste a piece of stiff paper cut in heart- 
shape over the entire back to hold the picture in place. 

Number 8. Doll's Hammock. Cut a stiff cardboard loom 

12 




Fourth Grade Work 



six by nine inches. Place so that the six-inch end is hori- 
zontal, and three-quarters of an inch down draw a straight 
line across the loom. Find the middle of this line and one- 
half inch above it make a dot. Now draw a curved line from 
end to end above the straight line, passing through the dot. 
Repeat on the other end. On both curved lines make dots, 
twenty-three on each line, equal distances apart, and punch 
holes in the dots. Draw intersecting lines from corner to 
corner of the loom, and in the angles thus formed above and 
below sew two small brass rings. 

Thread a needle with raffia and fasten in the upper ring, 
letting' an end hang out. Take up to the first hole in the upper 
right corner, A. down across the back to the corresponding 
lower hole, A\ up to the lower ring, fasten, back down to the 
second hole in the bottom and up to the second hole in the 
top. Do this until all the holes are filled, not crossing the 
raffia from ring to ring, but each time it goes through a ring 
it goes back to the row of holes on the same side, then across 
the back to the opposite row. If the raffia gives out, tie on 
a new strand and proceed as before. Fasten both ends by 
weaving in and out a few times close to the rings. 

Start the weaving close to one of 
the rings. Fasten the raffia in a knot 
around the first strand in the loom and 
weave under and over. A\'hen the raffia 
gives out tie on a new piece and cover 
the knot with the weaving. 

AVhen the top of the loom is reached 
fasten the raffia and, beginning at the 
other ring, weave from that to the bot- 
tom. Then weave on the other side, 
the back of the loom, being careful not 
to pull the weaving, or the hammock 
will go in tow^ards the centre. A good 
way to avoid this is to weave from one 
end to the middle. Weave closely but 
not tightly. 

When about seven rows have been 
woven from each end, weave four or five rows with a con- 
trasting color to form a stripe. Take from the loom by break- 
ing the loom on the curved lines of holes and buttonhole 
each ring with raffia. Finish by tying a row of fringe on each 
side just below where the hammock is curved. 




Diagram of Loom for 
Doll's Hammock 



14 



REED AND RAFFIA STITCH WORK 

IN this grade the children are ready to begin with reed work 
in connection with their raffia, and while this work is, of 
course, more difficult, it is intensely interesting, and the possi- 
bilities for developing baskets, trays, etc., are limitless. On 
the next page are several examples of the simpler forms of 
reed and raffia work, and these arc fo]]<i\\ed li\' details of the 
construction with ex- 
planation of the work, 
with directions for 
handling the material. 

The card - tray 
shown on this page is 
of reed, wrapped and 
stitched together with 
raffia. When the reed 
has been soaked until 
very pliable, with a 
sharp knife shave one 
end to a point. Wrap 
this point for an incli 
or so with raffia and 
bend around in a cir- 
cle. A\'rap again and 
take a stitch into the 
first row, and so on 
around, wrapping several times (away from the person) and 
then taking a stitch. 

When the tray is four inches in diameter, wet the end 
of the reed that has not yet been used, wrap closely with raffia 
and make scallops all the way around the edge, sewing tightly 
to the last row of wrapped reed. 

In all stitch work the reed should be damp enough to be 
pliable, but not Avet enough to make the raffia wet, for in the 
latter case the work will be rather loose when it gets dry. 
Be careful to make the stitches run the way the raffia is wrap- 
ped, so they will not be too plainly seen. When a strand of 
raffia is almost used, Avrap a few times around the reed, and 
o\er that wrap the end of a fresh piece and then take a stitch. 




Card Tray 



15 




Reed and Raffia Stitch Work — Fifth Grade 
l6 



DESCRIPTION OF ARTICLES ON PAGE 16 

Number i. Stitch Basket of Reed and Raffia. Start a 
base like the card-tray described on page 15. When the l^ase 
is as large as desired begin the sides by coiling a row directly 
on the last row of the base and stitching the same as in the 
bottom. The next row goes above the last one, etc. Putting 
each row directly above the last makes the sides straight. 
If each row is held out a little the sides will be curved. Finish 
at the same part of the basket where we started to turn up 
for the side. Shave part of the reed away to a point and 
stitch down to the last row, or finish with an i^ilge like that 
shown on the card-tray. 

If it becomes necessary to use a new piece of reed in the 
course of making a basket, shave oi¥ the upper side of the old 
piece and the under side of the new piece about an inch from 
the end, place together and wrap a couple of times with 
raffia, to hold before it is stitched. If a second color is de- 
sired, lay an end of it along the reed under the raffia with 
which the stitching is being done for an inch or so before 
desiring to use it. 

This basket has a base of natural color, and sides touched 
with contrasting color thus : When two rows have been 
stitched on the side, divide the last row into five equal parts, 
and at each point take four wraps of some contrasting color. 
Stitch six rows and drop the extra color, finishing the basket 
in the natural color. 

Stripes and many simple designs may be put in these 
baskets Avith little trouble. 

Number 2. Fan of Reed and Raffia. Make a base as for a 
stitch basket, as in No. i, and finish without an edge. Now 
take a piece of reed which has been previously soaked, bend 
in the middle, bind the two ends together, and wrap or but- 
tonhole this loop with raffia. Sew the ends fast to the middle 
of the mat and out to the edge. The looped part extends 
below for a handle. Thread the needle with raffia, and in the 
last row put strands of raffia very close together, which are 
tied and cut short into fringe. 

Number 3. Detail of Basket made entirely of Raffia. Take 
twelve strands of raffia and hold firmly. Thread a needle and 
wind the strands for a short space, then, using the twelve 
strands as a foundation, proceed as with the basket of reed 

17 



and raffia, with this slight difference — instead of stitching 
between the rows, catch in the middle of the preceding row. 
Turn up and finish the same as the former basket. In finish- 
ing, gradually omit a strand of the foundation until the end 
is properly sloped. When the raffia foundation gives out, add 
new strands, trying to add one or two at a time, as this will 
be found much easier than adding an entire new Inmch. 

Designs may be put in these baskets the same as in those 
having reed for a foundation. Twine may also be used for a 
foundation, and with a little care such a basket will be as 
solid as one made over reed. 

Number 4. Foot for Raffia Basket. Make a basket in anv 
color and design, following directions in No. i. When en- 
tirely finished turn the basket upside down, shave a piece of 
reed to a point, wrap with raffia a few times and stitch to 
the base : lay the reed on the place where the basket was 
turned up and work from right to left as though making the 
sides of a basket. Hold each row out slightly, put on three 
rows and finish as we did the side of the basket. If the body 
of the basket contains a design repeat this in the foot in a 
smaller pattern. 

Number 5. Lid for Raffia Basket. Make a flat mat like 
the base of a stitch basket. Make as large as the base of the 
basket it is intended to cover and add a fancy edge like the 
one shown on the card-tray on page 15. Take a piece of 
reed four inches long, point each end and lay together, thus 
forming a ring which is wrapped with raffia and sewed to the 
middle of the top of the lid. Sew the lid to the basket for 
about an inch, leaving it loose enough to work like a hinge. 
Small rings like the one on this lid are nice sewed to the 
sides of raffia baskets for handles. Thev should be sewed on 
with raffia. 

Number 6. Holder for Toothpicks or Matches. Start a 
base as though starting a stitch l)asket of reed and raffia. 
Make eleven rows of natural color raffia, then three rows of 
some contrasting color — brown is used here. Now two more 
rows of natural color and then finish with a looped edge like 
the card-tray. This edge has eight loops. A good way is to 
divide the base into eight equal parts and stick a pin into 
each place. After the edge has been wrapped and securely 
fastened at each point, buttonhole all around it with natural 
color raffia. 

Now point a piece of reed, wrap a few times and lay on the 



fifth row from the centre and stitch a couple of times. Wrap 
and stitch until a small circle is completed in the middle of 
the orig-inal base. Coil another row on this one and so on 
until five are done in the natural color, then three ni brown 
and five of natural color, which finishes the top. 

Number 7. Cover. This cover has a foundation of reed, 
and is stitched with raffia exacth^ like the base of an\' stitch 
basket. Stitch tog'ether one more row than there are in the 
base of the basket for which the ccner is intended. Turn 
up and stitch four row^s, keepins:^ them quite straight. The 
same cover could be made tc^ fit a tmnbler. 

Number 8. Handle for Raffia Basket. Select a 1< >n,i;- piece 
of rather heavy reed, soak well and bend each end up to form 
a loop. Fasten securely with raffia by starting at one loop, 
wrapping around the foundation to the next loop. Then wra]) 
smoothly or buttonhole the entire handle, including the loops. 
Fasten handle to basket by 
stitching the loops firmly to 
opposite sides. 

A bundle of raffia also 
makes a good foundation for a 
handle, as it may be bent into 
almost any shape without 
breaking. 

The details of a basket — 
start, finish, handle, etc., are of 
much importance, and there- 
fore, it is well to have the raffia 
smooth and the stitches even. 
If the raffia is split into strands 
of uniform width the work, 
while a little slower, will be 

much more eff^ective. Also the finer the reed used for the 
foundation the prettier and more dainty will be the basket. 




Detail of Reed and Raffia Plate 



Plate of Reed and Raffia. A plain base is stitched in the 
following manner: Start a row or two, as we did the very 
first raffia basket, then wrap the raffia several times towards 
the person and stitch up through the preceding row. Now 
wrap once more towards the person, and this time bring the 
thread between the rows and over the stitch that holds them 
together from left to right, then immediately wrap under 
again and continue as before. This leaves an open space 



19 




between the rows which are held together by tiny knots 
(see detail on page 19). The work is alike on both sides. 

Be sure each time a slitch is taken that the needle goes 
between two knots. A basket done in this stitch will work 
up faster on account of the open pattern. W hen this base 

is sufficiently large, turn up for 
the sides, but instead of keep- 
ing the rows straight, slant them 
out, so that the basket will be 
almost flat like a ])late. Turn 
upside down and stitch on the 
base two rows for a foot (de- 
scribed in No. 4). The exact 
number of rows for this plate 
can scarcely be given, as the 
sizes of reed vary greatly, but 
a plate or saucer of the right 
Detail of Basket, No. i size would be a good copy. 

Two stitches that make attractive baskets are shown on 
this page. Detail No. i is described first. Wrap the end of 
the reed for a little way, then doul)le it around and wrap this 
tiny loop together, so as to have 
something to stitch to. Now for 
the next row, take the raffia un- 
der the reed, then over, under 
again, and take the stitch from 
the bottom u|). This makes the 
stitches pretty close, but it also 
makes a very firm basket. 

Detail No. 2. .Start as in 
Detail No. i and take the first 
stitch u]^ through the centre. 
Now Avlnd around once or twice 
and stitch <lo^vn through the 
centre. Continue until there are 
three rows, then continue Avra]:)- 

ping several times, and then the stitch goes across the next 
two rows and down between the rows. 

Thus we wrap and then stitch across three rows, counting 
the one being wrapped. In putting the needle through do not 
pierce the previous stitches, but put them very close together. 
As the base becomes wider more stitches will have to be put in. 




Detail of Basket, No. 2 



20 




Detail A is a good stitch to use in making oblong baskets. 
Take a well-soaked piece of reed and wrap loosely with raffia 
for over an inch. Double this around and wrap over both 
pieces, and in coming to the under side slip the needle through 
it, taking a stitch to hold firmly. Now wrap once and take a 

stitch between the rows direct- 
ly through the raffia from the 
bottom side up. Continue 
wrapping once and stitching 
once in this w^ay until the 
basket is completed. If the 
reed is not very wet it will 
break when the corners are 
turned. 

Detail A for an Oblong Basket 

Detail 15 is a decidedly open, 
lacy stitch. When the coil has been started in the usual man- 
ner proceed in this way. Wrap a couple of times and take 
a stitch from the top dowm and then wrap once more, and 
instead of pulling the raffia tightly, I)ring it under and wrap 
around this loose stitch from right to left three times, mak- 
ing the wra])s one above another to make a long stitch 
and continue as l:)efore. 
These difi^erent details are 
merely to show the difl^erent 
stitches which may be used 
in making basketry, and all 
of them should be practised 
and mastered, then applied 
to some of the shapes given 
on page \f). or to an\' other 
styles of baskets which one 
cares to make. If a ver}- 
close effect is desired, use 
Details Nos. i and 2 on page 
20, and for an open effect, 
use either the stitch showni 

on page 19, or Detail P.. which is shown on this page. 
Any desired colors may be used in Avorking out these 
stitches, and it is well to remember that the beauty of the 
basket depends to a great extent upon the color combination. 
Wood colors, the deep rich browns and dull greens in va- 
rious tones are all very pleasing to the eye. 




Detail B for an Open Lacy EiTect 



21 



Siisth Grad< 



e 



REED WORK 

BY the time the child has made one or two stitch baskets 
he will have some knowledge of handling- reed, and will 
be ready to make plaques and baskets entirely of reed. It is 
a mistake to put reed work in the 
grades too soon. Sixth Grade is about 
right. If put in lower grades, the 
teacher usually has to do most of the 
work. 

First of all the reed must be well 
soaked and pliable, and the weaving 
must be done with finer reed than that 
used for the spokes. A Sixth Grade 
pupil will not have much trouble in 
making the little basket which is illus- 
trated on this page. 

Cut seven spokes, each eighteen 
inches long, and cross them in the 
middle, three one way and the other 
four diagonally in twos like the spokes 
in a cart-wheel (see detail). Take one 

end of a long weaver and place back of a group of two, 
across the next group of three, under the next two, and so on 

around, then over the 




Showing how the 
Basket is Begun 



first group of two and 
around that way. Upon 
going around this way 
the \veaver Avill have to 
go under the first spoke 
in the group of three to 
make it come out even. 
NoAv separate the 
spokes and Aveave back of 
one. over one, etc. Hold 
weaver and spokes firm- 
ly to a table or desk with 
the left hand and weave 
with the right. At this point we must insert an extra spoke, 
sticking the end in the middle between any two spokes. This 




A Simple Basket 



22 



gives the odd number, which is necessary in tlie under and 
over weave. The new spoke must be half as long as the orig- 
inal ones. 

See that the spokes are separated equal distances apart, 
and when we have woven a circle two and one-half inches in 
diameter, take a pair of pliers and squeeze each spoke and 
bend it up. Continue the weaving as before, the upright spokes 
forming the sides of the basket. When one and one-half inches 
high push the end of the weaver down beside a spoke and 
cut off. The spokes should be slightly held out during the 
weaving, except the last time around, when the weaver should 
be pulled a trifle tighter. 

Now take any spoke and bring back of the next and push 
down beside it between the wea^•ing and cut off (see detail of 
edge). Do this all around, making an edge to the basket. 
When a weaver is used up, place another one beside it, edges 
overlapping behind a spoke, and continue the weaving as 
before. 

This is the simplest and most common weave, but it does 
not make a very strong basket, especially if fine reed is used. 

Following is a description of another weave, which, when 
completed, looks like the above, but is thicker. Lay the base 
spokes as before, and this time the extra spoke mav be 
omitted, as this 
weave may be used 
with an even or an 
o (1 d number of 
spokes. Take a long 
pliable weaver and 
double it in loop 
fashion around a 
group of spokes. 
Then take the half 
on the left around 
the next group and 
the piece on the 
right around the one 
next to that, and so 

on around, then separate the spokes and weave the entire 
basket thus: First one piece, then the other, always using 
the piece to the left first, and always weaving from left to 
right fsee detail on page 30). Re careful to keep the bottom 
flat and the sides even when starting them. 




Detail of Edge of Basket 



23 



Reed Holder for Pencils and Brushes. Cut six spokes, 
each sixteen inches lonj^-. Place three horizontally and the 
other three vertically across the middle. Double a weaver 
slightly finer than the spokes (see description, page 2t^) around 

any three spokes. Weave 
closely around the groups 
twice, then separate the 
spokes evenly and weave 
around twice. Turn up the 
sides and hold the spokes 
rather straight for two inches, 
then gradually begin to press 
them in, at the same time 
slightly tightening the weav- 
ers. When five inches have 
been woven, finish ofi:" the 
weavers as before described, 
being sure to finish backs of 
the same spoke which was 
used in starting the weaving 
in the base. 

When the few^ remaining 
inches of spokes have been 
thoroughlv wet again, fashion 

Holder for Pencils and Brushes 

them into the ftjllowing edge. 
Take a spoke and lay it down 
back of the one next to it on the 
right, across the next one, and back 
of the next, where it is cut ofif. 
Do this all the way around. It 
makes a closer edge than the one 
descril)ed for the first basket. 

Holder for Toothpicks. The 
second illustration on this page ^ _ , . , 

shows a toothpick-holder, and 'is For Toothpicks 

made as follows : Cut five pieces of reed, each twelve inches 
long. Lay the three pieces horizontally and the two across them. 

Double a piece of reed around a group of three and weave 
around once. Separate the spokes and weave around again. 
Turn up the sides and weave fourteen rows and then, instead 





24 



of weaving around every spoke, take two at a time and weave 
five rows this way. Fasten the weaving and put on an edge 
Hke the one described for the pencil-holder. 

Basket made on Separate Base, The illustration on this page 
shows a basket made on a separate base. Cut seven pieces of 
reed, each seven inches long and cross them as before de- 
scribed. Double a long weaver and weave around the groups 
two or three times, then separate the spokes and weave around 
each one until the spokes are covered. Finish off the weav- 
ing by sticking each end down between the weaving beside a 
spoke. When the spokes 
are separated it will be 
seen that there are now 
fourteen. Cut fourteen 
more spokes, each ten 
and one-half inches long, 
and place one to the 
right of every base 
spoke and push down 
between the weaving. 
Now with the pliers 
pinch each one close at 
the base and turn up for 
the sides. If a very firm 
basket is desired, place two spokes at every base spoke, one 
on each side of it. Take two long weavers and put an end 
of each back of two spokes. Weave as for the base. 

When fourteen rows have been woven, fasten the weavers, 
make the remaining part of the spokes very wet, and make 
the following edge. Take any spoke and bring it back of the 
next, over the next, etc. Keep on weaving it in and out as 
far as it will go. Do the same with the next, then the next, 
etc., until all have been used. The ones toward the last will 
be a little more difficult, as nearly all are bent down, and one 
must take an awl and loosen enough to get them through. 
However, if one counts, there will be little trouble in getting 
them in the right place. 

Now take a long weaver and put the end down through 
the weaving close to a spoke on the outside of the basket : 
take over the rim of the basket and bring through to the out- 
side of the basket again between the rim and the last row 
of weaving. Take back over the rim again and bring through 
about one-half inch to the right. This forms a binding. 




Basket on Separate Base 



25 



Pen and Pencil Tray on Oblong 

Base. Cut three s])okes, each eight 
inches long", and three, eacli three and 
one-half inches long. Lay the three 
longer ones close together vertically. 
Across the middle place one of the 
shorter ones, and two inches on each 
side of it place one of tlie other t\v(^. A 
good way to fasten them is to pierce 
the middle of each of the shorter ones 
with a sharp knife and slip the longer 
ones through (see detail). Double a 
long wea\cr around one of the shorter 
gpokes, then weave around twice, using 
the three spokes as one. Now continue 
the weaving and separate the ends, go- 
ing around every spoke. 

Be sure to press the weaving ( espe- 
cially on the sides) close to the middle 
spokes, but do not pull tight enough to 
draw- the short spokes. A\'hen the entire 

base has 





The Short Spokes are 

Split and the Long 

Ones Slipped Through 



been woven, cut 
twenty-four spokes, each six 
inches long, and place one 
on each side of every base 
spoke. 

Turn up and ]ilace two 
weavers back of two spokes 
and weave three rows, making 
instead of a straight side a 
rather generous flare outward, 
then weave three more rows, 
going each tiiue around every 
two spokes, then fasten the 
weavers, separate the spokes 
again and put on the edge 
made l^y taking a spoke back 
of one, across the next, and 
down back of the next. Of 
course any other edge that is 
desired may be used, but this 
Pen and Pencil Tray on Oblong forms a very pretty finish for 
Base a shallow basket. 




26 



Basket with Handle. This basket has a base three iuehes 
hi diameter, and is woven on six spokes ; twelve side pieces, 
each six inches long, are now put in and turned up, and two 
rows woven very straight. Then one reed weaver and one 
white one are used and eleven rows woven with these. 

Xow fasten the white weaver and \\ea\e under, over, 
all around four times with the red alone. This makes a plain, 
pretty border. Now turn the spokes down in the edge de- 
scribed for the pen and pencil tray, leaving the edge some- 
what loose. This gives an attractive finish to the basket. 

Cut a very thick piece of 
reed fourteen inches long and 
point each cud with a sharp 
knife. Push one pointed end 
down between the weaving 
beside any spoke, count seven 
spokes from that, including 
the one just mentioned, and 
push the other end down be- 
side that one. 

Secure this handle to the 
basket in the following man- 
ner : Take a long piece of 
reed the thickness of the 
weavers and push it down 
between the Avcaving beside 
one end of the handle. Take 
across the edge to the inside 
of the basket and push to the 
outside between the weaving. 
Now bend up around the han- 
dle and wrap to the other side, 

where it is fastened in this way: going from the outside to 
the inside, then around the handle to the outside, through the 
loop made by itself, through to the inside again and cut off. 
The handle may be wrapped so that the wraps are (|uite 
far ai)art, or so closeK' that the entire handle is covered. 

Alany varieties of handles may be put on such a basket. 
Tw^o or even three pieces may be inserted behind the same 
spoke and all wrap])ed together with fine reed to make a 
thick handle. Or, one piece may be inserted behind a spoke 
and another behind the third from that, and each wrapped 
separately for a little way. and then brought together. 





' 


\ 






\ 


A 




V 






"^ 


t 


^r^*^g 


^&*^ A 




g 


fe 


^ 


B 


W 



Basket with Handk 



'em 



■;.) idled RmA 



FIVE spokes are cut, each about five and one-quarter 
inches long, and a base woven on them with a fine pale 
green weaver. Do not begin at once with the green weaver, 
make a centre, say four rows of the natural reed. Instead 
of making the base perfectly Hat, make it concave with the 
hollow side to the outside of the basket, tightening the weav- 
ers the last row or two around. 

Now eleven side spokes are cut, each one about seven 
inches long. Place one to the right of every base spoke and 
insert the extra one any place to fill in and make the odd 
number. Turn up the sides and weave a few rows, three or 
four, of the green, using one weaver in the under and over 
weave. Now substitute for this a weaver of braided rush 
in the natural green. Have it well soaked, but squeeze most 
of the water out before using. Weave three row's and then 
take up the green reed weaver again. Four rows with the 
latter will finish the weaving. 

For the edge, take any spoke back of the next one to the 
right, push down and cut off. Take the one back of wdiich 
the first was put across, to the left, and push down beside 

the one w e 
_ started with. 

Do this all 
around, which, 
makes six pairs 
of loops. In 
order to make 
it come out 
e\en an extra 
s p o k e will 
have to l)e in- 
serted near the 
odd one after 
the weaving is 
finished, and 
those two 
treated as the 
others. A 
small pan can 
Fern Dish of Reed and Rush be set in. 







mm '%:m % ...:^.^^i 




j^pr 



28 



Baglkel Tirimmed with Green Beads 

CUT four base spokes, each five inches long, and from the 
very start use two weavers, one of uncolored and one of 
green reed. When the base is finished add eleven side spokes, 
each eight inches long, one at each base spoke and the extra 
one any place that is convenient. Now turn up the sides and 
continue with 
the green and 
uncolored weav- 
ers for five rows : 
fasten the weav- 
ers and slip a 
large green 
glass bead over 
each spoke. 

At the point 
where the weav- 
ing was discon- 
tinued, start 
again by stick- 
ing each weaver 
down through a 
bead to hold it, 

and then weave five more rows and finish with the following 
edge : Take any spoke and bend it down back (^f the next 
one to the right, across that one t(^ the front, forming a loop, 
and in back of itself again (see detail). This forms a chain 
of flat loops all around, through which a ribbon may be run. 
The sides of this l)asket are kept rather straight. 

A pretty effect 
is gained by using 
large uncolored 
wooden beads and 
uncolored weavers, 
and when the bas- 
ket is finished it 
may be dyed or 
painted, any de- 
sired shade, thus 
making beads and 
Detail of Edge of Basket Trimmed with Beads l^asket all one color. 




Basket Trimmed with Beads 




29 



Additioima! Hinte for Basketry 

THE first detail shows 
the use of two weavers, 
and is described on page 23. 
The lower detail shows a 
section of basket where the 
weavers are used in pairs. 
This makes a pretty basket, 
or it may Ije used for part 
of a basket, say a section 
just before putting on the 
edge, or a few rows through 
the middle. Simply take 
four weavers and lay two 
together behind a spoke 
and weave as before shown, 
being careful to keep them 
straight in weaving. 

We must not forget to 
mention baskets made on 
\vooden bases. These may 
be bought round or square, or can be made any shape that 
is desired. Bore small holes near the edge, an even number 
if two weavers are used, an odd nund^er if the weaving is to 
be done with one weaver in the in and out weave. The side 
spokes must exactly fit the holes. Push one end through a hole 
and the (filler cud llirmii^ii tlie nt'xt and pull up tight. 




Commencing a Basket with Two 
Weavers 

For description, see page 23 




Weaving in Pairs 



30 



Lids are made just like bases, only a row or two larger, 
then they are turned up and the sides woven for a few rows, 
perfectly straight. Keep fitting it on the basket while mak- 
ing, to be sure it fits. Finish with a very close flat edge. 

The cut on this page is a detail which makes a very 
attractive basket. While ordinary round reed ma\- be used 
with good results, flat reed is most attractive when used in 
this wav. Wrap the weavers with rafiia before using. Wrap 
from left to right with one color and then the other way 
with another color. 

It is somewhat te- 
dious to make such a 
basket, as it takes a 
good bit of time to 
wrap the weavers, but 
if the colors are well 
chosen and the work 
neatly done the result 
repays one for the 
time spent. It is just 
as well not to wrap 
too m u c h o f the 
weaver at one time. 
\Mien the weaver is 
wrapped proceed with the weaving as with any other basket. 

The colors here used are brown and green raftia on the 
natural reed. A pretty efl:'ect is gained by using three colors. 
Dye the reed some pretty color (spokes and weavers both) 
and then use two contrasting shades of raffia. 

Just a hint about coloring: Wood dyes are sold now in all 
colors and they are remarkably easy to use ar.d very inex- 
pensive. Follow directions on each package. Directions are 
usuallv nothing more than adding hot water and diluting 
until the right shade or tint is ])roduce(l. 

Small baskets should be made first and then colored, or 
the weavers can be colored separately if desired. I'his last 
phase of the work will hardly be possible at school, and should 
be done by the pupil at home. On small baskets Avater-colors 
can be used, and this could easily be done in school. The lower 
part of the basket may have a heavy coat and the tints grow 
lighter near the top. One fault with these colors is that they 
fade. 




Wrapped Weavers 



31 



CiliLD having gone this far in l)asketry should begin to 
have ideas of his own on the subject and be able to put 
them to use. For instance, he should now be able to weave 
with three weavers, and to use willow, grasses, etc. Of course, 
willow is more difficult to handle than reed, owing to its slip- 
pery nature and to the fact that the strands are not of a uni- 
form thickness. 

All kinds of porch and hanging baskets should now be at- 
tempted as well as scrap-baskets, etc., the latter being, of 
course, made from heavy reed. 

A pretty basket for flowers is made on the order of the 
one shown on page 27, only the shape is a trifle dift'erent. Pro- 
cure a small tin can. one of the long narrow kind, and make 
the base of the basket as big as the bottom of the can. Kee]) 
the sides perfectly straight for about as many inches as the 
can is high and then gradually flare the top for several inches. 
This is done by pulling out each spoke slightly as the weav- 
ers go back of it. Put on a handle described on page 2.y. The 
can, of course, is to be filled wdth water and set inside the 
basket to hold flowers. A smaller basket can be made over a 
straight glass tumbler. 

The same idea can be carried out in a low basket with a 
wide base by setting in a small pan and filling with earth in 
which flowers may be planted. 

Splints are nice for the larger outdoor baskets, the heavy 
splints being more easily handled. These are verv easily made 
into s(|uare bases. Simply lay down a row of long splints 
equal distances apart, and, using others as weavers, weave un- 
der, over, etc. When the base is sufliciently large turn up the 
sides and continue the same weave. WHien the basket is high 
enough, finish the weaving and bend each spoke back towards 
the outside of the basket and down close to the last row of 
weaving, pushing the end between the weaving. 

Do not color splints or willow in hot dye, and, of course, 
the cold dye will require a longer time to take. Many peo- 
ple do not dye their baskets at all, simply going over them 
with a light coat of varnish. 



.32 




Priscilla Juniors' 
Embroidery Outfit 

This Embroidery Outfit is made up specially for little girls. It is 
remarkably complete, containing practically everything that little 
folks will need for embroidery. The outfit is of an exceptionally 
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satisfaction. 

The Complete Outfit Contains 

1 5-inch stamped Doily for Doll's Table . . $.08 

1 Skein Embroidery Cotton ..... .03 

1 Instruction Sheet for working .... .05 

1 Aluminum Thimble ...... .05 

1 Bone Stiletto 10 

1 Strawberry Emery . . . . . . .10 

1 Needlebook, containing 5 Embroidery Needles, 

assorted sizes ....... .04 

1 4-inch Embroidery Hoop . . . . . .10 

1 Pair Embroidery Scissors ..... .25 

Regular Price, $.80 

Special Price, Only SOfZ' Postpaid 

This Embroidery Outfit is sent in a special fitted box which is 
nice enough for every little girl to save and use as her very own 
"Work Box." 

The Priscilla Needlework Company 

87 Broad Street Boston, Mass. 




LIBRflRV OF CONGRESS 




rpl • • ,1 01'' 111 340 4 A 

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